IF YOU HAVE 3 MINUTES, THIS VIDEO OF THE HIKING/CLIMBING IS BREATHTAKING!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=axzrik-xOmk
It was another weekend of hiking here in Dominica, as we finished up the last of the hikes for the island. As of now, we have completed EVERYTHING in all the tourist handouts, as well as many hikes that are off the beaten trail and not targeted towards tourists. We started the day by venturing back towards the Diablotin area into the Sindicate National Park. This park is the only location in the world where you can view Sisserou parrots in their natural habitat. We arrived at the trail around 8 in the morning after an hour long drive from our home. Once we hit the trail however, we were reminded that we were indeed in a rain forest, as it began to lightly rain for our entire hike. The hike through the trail was very flat and manageable, one of the most defined trails we have seen on the island. We wandered the trails listening to the sounds of the birds overhead, but were unlucky and ultimately saw no parrots during our hike. It still was a beautiful area of rain forest though, with incredibly large trees looming overhead, and dark root systems tangling through the underbrush. It was a short hike, but one that amply prepared us for the rest of our long hiking day.
Me In Sindicate Nature Reserve
The next destination on our itinerary was the town of Bells, an area on the east side of the island. Here, we decided to embark on one of the oldest and most culturally relevant hikes on the island; The hike to Jacko Steps. The story of Jacko dates back to the colonial era, when African slaves were bring brought over in masses to the Caribbean islands for work in plantation and for exportation to America. However, many slaves that were brought to Dominica had a unique advantage that other islands simply couldn't provide. The vast uncharted rain forests and mountains provided a perfect hiding place for runaway slaves to disappear into the wilderness and establish camps where they could live their lives freely away from their slavers. These runaway slaves were called "Marooners," and at the height of the slave trade, Dominica had at least 13 established Marooner settlements hidden throughout the island, However, Jacko was seen to be the major ringleader of the Marooners. Jacko established his settlement in the mountains by the Layou river, which allowed him the luxury of freshwater, as well as mountains for safety. Here, Jacko and his followers carved the famous steps into the side of the mountain to allow easier transport for supplies and his men up and down the treacherous mountain path. During the Marooner Wars of the 1790's and 1810's, Jacko's camp was the main target for the British, and eventually was where Jacko was captured and killed.
Our hike started at the base of a river where 3 young children were more than eager to show us where to cross, and lead us up the road to the Jacko Steps trail head. Here, we met a woman who charged us 10EC a person to use the trail which was on her families land, which we gladly paid and began the hike up to the steps.
A Large Citrus On The Farm
Following The Children
Crossing The River With The Children
A Wisconsin Esque Sign
The hike started out with a steep incline, but soon leveled out and turned downhill as we approached the steps. The trail was very narrow, with us walking along a cliff face, being extra care not to fall and tumble to the world below. We finally reached the steps after a half hour or so of hiking. The steps resembled a corridor carved into the mountains, with a moss covered hallway emerging up from the mountains below. We carefully walked down the treacherous slippery steps, and were a little disappointed to find that there were only roughly 10 steps carved into the mountain. I guess if I were a marooner I would be spending my time on finding food and staying hidden than carving long elaborate stairways too. Regardless, the steps provided a very unique view of the island and it's history, and the view down the stairs was actually rather cool. We then proceeded to turn around and head back up the trail and head to our next destination. On the way back, we crossed the river a second time, waved good bye to the kids and their puppies, and prepared for our next planned hike of the day. The trip to Sari Sari falls.
Catherine On The Steps
Sari Sari falls was an unexpectedly beautiful hike. After being literally chased down by a local who insisted on being our tour guide, we after several attempts told him we were capable of the hike alone, and began our journey into the jungle. The trail head first takes you through a small farm, where a lone cow was grazing and many baby coconut trees were growing. However, where the farmland stops, the dark jungle began, and we soon found ourselves immersed once again in the Dominican rain forest. We could hear the sound of rushing water from down below, and after navigating the trail for awhile, soon found ourselves at a flowing river where the trail comes to an end. We decided to cross the river, wading knee deep through flowing water and slippery rocks, and were lucky enough to pick up the trail on the other side.
Crossing The River
Here, a hidden fishing tent confirmed to us that we had made the right decisions, as clearly people cross the river to frequent this spot. We continued up the path where we encountered another river crossing, this time more shallow and traversible than the first. We crossed, and waved hello to a group of 2 hikers and a guide who were returning from the falls, and who reassured us the hike was most certainly worth it. However, after the other group had passed and we crossed the river, we soon found ourselves lost among the overgrown vegetation and the towering boulders we needed to scale to attempt to re-find the path. We constantly were scurrying up and down rocks, looking for any sign of a trail. We looked for any moss that could have been rubbed off the rocks by passing by hikers or any broken spider webs that would signify we were on the right path, but didn't find any. Just as we were about to head back towards the start and give up, Phil found a small opening in the foilage that lead to a more defined path. We followed the path that took us deep into the mountains. and ultimately lead us back to the river. Here, we had to scale just a few more boulders and we were able to see the falls billowing down from the mountaintop.
Admiring The Falls From Afar
From here, we could admire the falls from afar, however, I wanted to see the basin. So, I decided to scale the rocky bluffs to try to get to the upper area of the waterfall, having to swing holding boulders like spider man and climb like a cliffhanger to reach the very top. Once I reached the top, the view was extraordinary, with my teammates down below me looking like ants in comparison to the mighty Sari Sari Falls. Here, the wind from the falls blew tremendously hard and made the journey back to my teammates all the more treacherous, as the falls cloud of mist had soaked all the boulders and handholds I needed to return to the lower basin. Once I was reunited with my team mates, we took one last look (and selfie) of the falls, and began the fun climb back down to the trailhead. The hike was slippery, but we ultimately were able to complete the journey, and start to head to the last item on our itinerary, Victoria Falls.
Me Towards The Top On Right
Me Towards The Top
Victoria falls was said to be one of the more confusing hikes, as we were told you have to cross the river over six times to reach the roaring falls. However, after conquering EVERY other hike on the island without a guide, we were confident in our abilities to finish our last major island hike. The "trail" started right at the waterfront, and instantly disappeared into the riverbank. Here, we walked up and down the banks trying to find where the trail could possibly be picked up on the other side. After finding a reasonable crossing point, we forged the river, taking care not slip into the knee deep water, we picked up the trail on the other side of the river. This part of the trail took us through a small grassland, with ferns and beautiful red flowers lining the path. However, as abruptly as the trail had started, it once again disappeared into a riverbed, this time with faster moving water, and MANY more boulders. We crossed the river a second time, and picked up what appeared to be a trail that took us slightly upstream and STRAIGHT up into the mountains. The trail was so steep and long that we had to climb with our hands in front of us to hold the ground and remain on the path. After climbing this vertical trail for a half hour, we made the executive decisions that there was no possible way the falls could be up this high, as the trail stopped at a cliff face that would require some serious rock climbing skills to climb. Furthermore, we had climbed so high we could barely see the river below, and decided the falls couldn't be much higher than the river, and decided to scurry back down to the river level. Unfortunately for us, there wasn't a trail that lead further upstream, and rather just many boulders that were littered throughout the fast moving water. We crossed the stream several times going up river, hoping to find a spot where the trail could be re picked up. Unfortunately for us, it appeared there was no trail to pick up. I scouted ahead, scaling the boulders and contouring the forest edge looking for any sign of a trail that could possibly lead us further up the river, but found nothing. We found a pair of old boots, several stacked rocks, and a soda bottle that assured us that people had indeed been this way, but with the fast water and the enormity of the boulders, we decided it would be impossible to simply climb our way up river. So, with daylight quickly fading and disappointment in our hearts, we opted to turn around, and return to the falls with fresh spirits tomorrow. We then proceeded to return across the several river crossing and return home. Once home and with delicious Fusion Village food in our bellies, we researched pictures and video of Victoria falls, and compared them to the pictures and memories we had of our hike. This, along with some helpful trip adviser reviews, gave us confident that we could return the next day and conquer Victoria Falls once and for all.
We woke early once again the next day, this time more eager to conquer the falls than we had been before. However, after voyaging out to the east side of the island, we decided to start the day with a shorter hike that was not listed in any major tourist documentation. This was the hike to Glassy Pool, a roughly 1 hour hike that took us from the roadside down through the forest along an ocean path. The trail offered absolutely stunning views of bays and rock faces, all with waves crushing into their sides and sending sprays of foamy water directly into the air. We continued along this path for a half hour. Stopping only for small scenic overlooks and to chase the numerous lizards (and one small snake) that kept darting along the trail edge.
A View From The Trail
A Nice Scenic View
Hiking Down To The Rocks
Group Shot On The Trail
However, once we reached the bottom, we were in awe that this location was not in any major tourist itineraries. What lay before us was one of the most beautiful tide pool rock structures that I have ever seen. Jutting into the ocean, a large volcanic slab of rock with crystal clear tide pools and crashing waves lay before us with beautiful mini jungle islands surrounding us on all sides. With gitty smiles we all began scowering the rock faces and observing the tide pools interesting aquatic life. Inside the biggest tide pool were many trilobites and even a single colorful fish that must have been washed in there by a large wave that hurled him over the rock side. The views here were incredibly amazing, and after dipping my legs in the deepest tide pool, we relaxed watching the waves for awhile and chilled on the rock. We stayed at the rock for a long while before returning back up the trail to return to Victoria Falls and conquer it once and for all.
Inside The Largest Tide Pool
Michael On The Rocks
Once back in the Victoria Falls area, we started hiking down the long driveway earlier to avoid having to pay the fee to use the trail they try to hit you with when you get out of a vehicle at the trailhead. So we tiptoed passed the entry point, and once again began to make our way across the riverbank and across the rivers. We found our way back to where we had lost the trail in the first place, and encountered two other lost hikers from St. Maartin who were very happy to have us attempt to guide them along the rocks. We decided that we simply had to continue up the boulders, and climb higher up the river in order to reach the falls, and with much teamwork, we were able to throw ourselves up over many of the steep ledges. Many of the rocks were very slippery, and we were constantly crossing back and fourth across the deep STRONG river trying to find the best spots to climb further up. At points the water was up high on my back, and I had to swim across to the other sides with my large backpack helping to float me across.
Crossing A River
Climbing Some Rocks
We eventually ran into a group of tourists and a guide who ensured us that we were close, and that we simply had to climb up boulders for another 20 minutes and we would arrive at the falls. We continued up river, at points having to rock climb large boulders directly vertically. However, when we rounded the final river bend and could see the mighty Victoria Falls billowing before us, we knew all our troubles had been rewarded. Towering over us was probably THE most beautiful waterfall that we have seen to date on the island. We climbed higher to reach the basin, and when we finally were close enough we ripped off our shirts and ran down to the water.
Reaching The Falls!
At The Falls!
Vines Hanging Down From The Rocks Above
The water was refreshingly cool on our sweat ridden bodies, and the wind from the falls was so strong it was hard to hear our voices over it's tremendous roar. Once in the water, the force of the falls was so great that the current kept forcing us backwards, and we had to swim constantly against the current to make any progress. I couldn't wipe a smile from my face the entire time, and I cannot remember a time where I was so giggly and excited in my life. Swimming in the basin was probably one of the happiest moments I have had on the island, and by far one of the most fun swimming experiences I have EVER had. Swallow birds kept flying over our heads, as the darted at times insanely close to our bodies as if to try to ward us off from enjoying their favorite spot on the island. We swam for a very long time until we were fatigued from the current and cold from the cool mountain wind. Still, as we toweled off, we kept smiling, as I think the time we had at Victoria Falls is the most I have seen my group smile in the last 10 weeks. When we finally decided to return down through the boulders and back towards the trailhead, we did so with high spirits, knowing that we conquered the last major obstacle on the island, and had accidentally saved the best for last.
Swimming In The Falls!
Swimming Selfie
King Of The World
Hiking Down
Swimming Over To Explore The Small Cave
Climbing Down A Small Falls